Liz Collins Motherlode
University of Chicago Press, Chicago, IL, 2025
160 pp., illus. 125 col.
Trade, $45.00 (pre-order before August 2025)
ISBN: 978-3-7774-4448-2.
Reviewed by Mahshid Gorjian
Kate Irvin edited Liz Collins Motherlode, released with the RISD Museum. It is a huge, multi-voiced dedication to the queer feminist artist Liz Collins. It is a review, a statement, a personal collection, and an emotional conversational field. It is a conceptual tapestry that perfectly mimics Collins's artistic style. The publication carefully mixes critical analysis, personal stories, and beautiful photographs to create a bright and thorough picture of an artist who refuses genres and whose work connects the aesthetic, political, and spiritual.
Kate Irvin's core article, Theoretical Framing and Trickster Approaches, is the book's intellectual heart. It compares Collins to Lewis Hyde's trickster figure, saying she is a boundary-crosser, shapeshifter, and creative instigator. This framing is not just a metaphor; it gives us a way to comprehend Collins's polymorphous approach, eliminating the lines between fashion, fine art, craft, and performance. Irvin's essay stands out for its deep theoretical content and clear writing. It combines Hyde's mythopoetic framework with feminist and queer materialisms. Her use of "pore-seeking" as a conceptual strategy, which she got from Hyde but changed to focus on physically and emotional flexibility, perfectly captures the spirit of Collins's work: to create space, to break down conclusion, and to let emotion, politics, and desire proceed through the fabric of art.
A Practice of Things and Identity discusses Collins's innovative material technique, which combines industrial knitting, hand-grafting, embroidery, and immersive installation, lies at the center of Motherlode. The monograph respectfully and insightfully records this change, especially in its look at the "knit-grafting" technique that Collins invented, an innovation that shows her aesthetic politics. The word suggests a mix of things and a fight against them: a mix of high-tech and hand-made, of gendered work and conceptual art. The Knitting Nation series (2005–2016) is important to the text's story and political development. These big performances, when uniformed knitters make textiles in public and institutional locations, are shown to be ways to criticize work and show support for LGBT people. As Collins and others have said, these events are not only pretty but also cultural traditions that stand in for the isolation of workers and the idea that design is not political.
The articles by Julia Bryan Wilson, Octavia Bürgel, Zoe Latta, and Glenn Adamson add to the book's layered quality by showing diverse sides of Collins's feminist and queer beliefs. Bryan Wilson's interview is especially significant since it combines academic research with the closeness of shared experience. Their conversation digs into Collins's political and educational beliefs, showing the importance of hands-on experience in textile education. Collins teaches by doing things with her hands, such as knitting, grafting, cutting, and mending. Motherlode also becomes a teaching tool. Collins's queer feminism is not only about concepts; it's also about form, method, and infrastructure. Her needlepoints, fashion collections, and installations need not be finished or perfect. Colors clash, threads hang loose, and surfaces break. Collins describes these "tender clashes" as artistic expressions of mental breakdown, sexual complexity, and a desire for a perfect world. The text connects Collins's work to feminist fiber artists like Lenore Tawney and Sheila Hicks, but it also puts her strongly in the modern queer abstraction movement.
The last parts of the book take an exciting turn into spiritual abstraction. It is not only mysticism that brings up Theosophy, especially the 1901 Thought Forms by Besant and Leadbeater. It is not a physical mechanism, but a philosophical one that connects Collins's visuality to past modes of energetic visualization and spiritual inquiry. In pieces like Power Portal and Cosmic Explosion, color, pattern, and material become ways to send feelings and spiritual messages. The book suggests a radical queering of spiritual aesthetics that is free from religious rules yet full of devotion, anguish, and sex.
One of Motherlode's biggest successes is its refusal to allow Collins's work to become outdated. Pieces like Veins Darkness or Crying demonstrate several stages of change, highlighting process, iteration, and emotional instability. The book fails to maintain track of finished things; instead, it keeps track of things becoming emotional and formal. Motherlode shows a queer time of return and revision, which Ann Cvetkovich would name a "reparative archive."
Conclusion: As a Curriculum for the Senses Motherlode is a great example of feminist curatorial and editing work. It is rich because it allows contrasts to exist: structure and chaos, joy and pain, abstraction and embodiment. This book is a scholarly resource and a sensory curriculum for readers, especially those interested in the connections between art, design, gender, and theory. It's not just Liz Collins; it's Liz Collins: big, gay, open, and full of life. Motherlode pushes for a deeper, more creative interaction in a time when art books generally focus on polished stories or shiny displays. It provides us the raw ore, the shining thread, and the fraying edge, and in doing so, it reminds us that both making and loving are political activities.